Subterranean Whitewater Blues – Packrafting the caves of Laos’ Xe Bang Fai River

By Eduardo Hazera After a few days of trying to convince some grim-faced bureaucrats to give me a rafting permit, I said screw it. A week earlier, I was packrafting down the Xe Lanong River in Laos when a mute in green fatigues pointed an AK-47 at me. He grunted and gestured to the shore

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